PROJECT SALVAGED


	Jen bought this Suburban from Andrew Gizinsky in ACROPHOBIA for $2000 and a pinstriped Acrophobia toilet seat. I think we still might owe him the seat. lol. We will call it even Andrew because the alternator took a dump the day we brought it home. J/K. lol. She drove the thing for her daily for quite some time enjoying all the room it had to offer. The problem was someone else liked it more than she did and STOLE it from her from the Hampton Inn in Beaumont, Texas April 2009 (feel free to call them and give them hell for not having their security cameras hooked up right!) The police think it was an inside job so feel free to call them and voice your opinion on it ... here is their number 1-409-840-9922 BEFORE AFTER PROJECT SALVAGE has been underway for quite sometime. This vehicle was stolen from Jennifer Hendrex with all of here belongings inside the Uhaul that was attached to the suburban. The only thing that was recovered was the Suburban and it was so thrashed (engine/tranny/brakes) the insurance company considered it a total loss. Since the vehicle frame, body and interior were in great shape we decided to stock floor body drop it and give it a complete air ride setup. She wanted to have this burb to drive so we are building it like a brick shithouse and eliminating as much problems as we can to avoid roadside assistance. Since its a 1993 we can avoid all pollution problems in North Carolina and still get it inspected. It has a SALVAGED title as well a a custom tag that reads SALVAGED lol. Wheels: 22" Coys with 5" backspacing in rear and 5.5 in front Tires: Falken tires 265-40-22 all around Brakes: Front = Stock ...Rear = disc brake conversion from a street rod shop that will not be named because they LIE! Stock Floor: 1.75 Z ing frame 3" in front Rear end: stock rear end narrowed 6" by Carolina 4X4 in Charlotte Rear Suspension: Satchel link rear setup. Very strong setup used on many race cars back in the day. Google it if you don't know what it is. Suicide Doors kit. Square tubes on bottom and round tubes on top. All adjustable. From Stylin Solutions Front Suspension: Stock lowers and stock uppers off a 2500 6 lug 2wheel drive replace with 1" narrowed upper and lowers from DALLAS HOT ROD PARTS because of fender clearance issues Valves: SMC 1/2" from Waylayed Air Suspensions Air Compressor: Engine driven York 210 from Waylayed Air Suspensions Bags: RE8's all corners Fittings: Press to connect form Ekstensive Metal Works. The best push to connects I have ever worked with!!! Lines: 1/2 " copper hard line Air Guages: Dakota Digital Power Wire and connects: MTX and Streetwires Battery: Relocated to the rear (KINETIC) Interior: custom and rockin 2 bench seats! NEW ACC CARPET KIT Exhaust: SPECIAL THANKS TO: Eric at little shop for all the answers to all the questions I asked. I guess we are even now from all the zip ties and tape you have borrowed from me at the shows over the past few years lol Mark at Slaughterhouse Customs in Tomball, Texas for also answering any questions I had with the suspension and stock floor. RA/// JEFF for all his knowledge on the stock floor body drop Curt Fidurko for busting his but with me late at night and burning his arms helping weld. Jeremy at TRE5 for answering all my questions on his Tahoe build Z-ING the frame. Way easy with an engine hoist. Make sure truck is level. Build the legs off the frame to the floor. Cut the frame near firewall. Make sure you have hoist attached to the engine but do not put too much tension on the hoist just snug it up. Jack the section up three inches. Place 2X3 inch box steel under each leg. Lower the section onto the 2X3 and weld up. Cut the frame horns and remove the 2X3 box steel from under its leg and the horns are completely the same distance you raised the front. It only needed a 2.75 inch Z but we decided to go 3 just incase we decide to cut the pinch off later. while we had the front end off we replaced and painted: inner and outer tie rods ball joints rotors new inner and outer bearings new master cylinder new brake lines new calipers drop spindles Using the engine hoist to relieve the stress off the frame we scribed a line and cut away. lol Raised it up three inches and gusseted the hell out of it using 3 inch gussets a quarter inch thick and welding it on the inside and well as the outside. lowered the front frame horns down Cleanin up some welds gas filler is still in the same spot just needed to make a new mount. 22inch COY C5's with a 265-40-22 tire. Running a little fatter tire because once again "its built to drive" Wadded many of wheels over the years its just getting old. It has the diameter of most 24's Rockin the RA logo in the rear wheel well Bagged it to the pinch just in case we want to take it off....looks like we will take it off soon Dakota Digital gauge in dash. Led on dash illuminates every time the engine driven turns on so we can tell when we are rolling if there is any problems. If a pressure switch goes bad these engine drivens will run themselves till they die. If the light stays on then we know we have a problem and we can turn the kill switch on under the dash until we can diagnose the problem. whoops.....missin a dash screw! lol York 210 engine driven Compressor. Summit Racing Stainless radiator hose to keep the fan and belts from leaving us stranded. Kept the AC and there is no way in hell the wheel is coming in contact with the firewall. Went gonzo on the tub. Relocated wire harness plug as well. Wheel well tubs will be coming soon. Water trap located on the core support. Floor is raised up 3" and battery is relocated to the rear. Thank you Kinetic, MTX and STREETWIRES. Gas filler is tucked out of the way so trim panels wont protrude. Tubbed the rear wheels for 26's if needed in the future. Still lots of cargo room left for long trips. All copper hard lines and SMC 1/2 inch valves. Slow down valves on the inlets and outlets so we don't slam the ass end into the ground or hop the rear off the ground when we air it up. We also used mufflers to knock down the noise in the cab. She will have full control of the speed up and down. We all know the front goes up way slower than the rear and with this setup she will be able to adjust them so they can come up somewhat even and go gown even saving the roll pan. Two five gallon tanks mounted underneath the rear and behind the rear tire. Bagged and bodied it to the pinch just in case we get a crazy notion to cut it off. Runnin bag spacers for now to take up the slack so we still get max lift. Rear wheel wells have RA logos mounted in them then bed lined over them. Just a subtle mod to an ugly inner wheel well. Logos look very cool and are completely visible when layed out. Rear disk brake conversion kit and painted chassis. All new sheet metal was bed lined inside the cab. Trap door in the rear so when the fuel pump goes out we can replace it with ease. Notice I said "GOES OUT "lol Built tray in rear to house valves. Holes in panel for bulk head fittings so the air lines can get into the cab without water leaks. Yes the rear seat goes in and is not raised! all this is mounted underneath the seat. The only thing exposed is the drive shaft tunnel in front of seat. Built drive shaft hoop that hooks into the 4 link bar x-member underneath for added strength. Tied the hoop into the bag mount as well. Trap door pic. Relocated battery to the rear as well. Stock gas tank was used and raised up. Yes gas can go in it! The filler is at an angle. Its not a huge angle but it has an inch of drop over a foot and a half span. It wont be fun filling it but we didn't want to fill the burb up from the inside nor relocate and shave the stock filler door. She wanted to drive this ride. It has the oversized tank and she can fill it up once and make a journey to Florida if she wants without filling up 4 or 5 times. Plus she retains the factory fuel pump and wiring. Rear has a satchel Link. The angled bars are on the bottom and the straight bars are on the outside of the frame mounted on top of the axle. This had to be done because we wanted to retain most of the floor. The angled bars have the RE8's mounted to them. The over all length of each of the bars is 40". We didn't want small stubby bars to cause the axle to rack when traveling up and down. Longer bars tend not to rack as bad. We never had to worry about this 10 years ago but with the onslaught of large wheels it has become and issue. The larger the wheel the more lift you need...blah blah blah. will it ever stop. Gas door from the inside of the cab. JENS FIRST WELDS. Not too bad for a first timer. What a champ! Only sleeves on this chick that day was the tattooed ones, some gloves and a mask. lol

: Jen bought this Suburban from Andrew Gizinsky in ACROPHOBIA for $2000 and a pinstriped Acrophobia toilet seat. I think we still might owe him the seat. lol. We will call it even Andrew because the alternator took a dump the day we brought it home. J/K. lol. She drove the thing for her daily for quite some time enjoying all the room it had to offer. The problem was someone else liked it more than she did and STOLE it from her from the Hampton Inn in Beaumont, Texas April 2009 (feel free to call them and give them hell for not having their security cameras hooked up right!) The police think it was an inside job so feel free to call them and voice your opinion on it ... here is their number 1-409-840-9922


BEFORE

AFTER


PROJECT SALVAGE has been underway for quite sometime. This vehicle was stolen from Jennifer Hendrex with all of here belongings inside the Uhaul that was attached to the suburban. The only thing that was recovered was the Suburban and it was so thrashed (engine/tranny/brakes) the insurance company considered it a total loss. Since the vehicle frame, body and interior were in great shape we decided to stock floor body drop it and give it a complete air ride setup. She wanted to have this burb to drive so we are building it like a brick shithouse and eliminating as much problems as we can to avoid roadside assistance. Since its a 1993 we can avoid all pollution problems in North Carolina and still get it inspected. It has a SALVAGED title as well a a custom tag that reads SALVAGED lol.


Wheels:
22" Coys with 5" backspacing in rear and 5.5 in front




Tires:
Falken tires 265-40-22 all around

Brakes:
Front = Stock ...Rear = disc brake conversion from a street rod shop that will not be named because they LIE!


Stock Floor:
1.75


Z ing frame
3" in front


Rear end:
stock rear end narrowed 6" by Carolina 4X4 in Charlotte



Rear Suspension:
Satchel link rear setup. Very strong setup used on many race cars back in the day. Google it if you don't know what it is.
Suicide Doors kit. Square tubes on bottom and round tubes on top. All adjustable. From Stylin Solutions


Front Suspension:
Stock lowers and stock uppers off a 2500 6 lug 2wheel drive replace with 1" narrowed upper and lowers from DALLAS HOT ROD PARTS because of fender clearance issues


Valves:
SMC 1/2" from Waylayed Air Suspensions: Air Compressor:
Engine driven York 210 from Waylayed Air Suspensions


Bags:
RE8's all corners


Fittings:
Press to connect form Ekstensive Metal Works. The best push to connects I have ever worked with!!!


Lines:
1/2 " copper hard line


Air Guages:
Dakota Digital


Power Wire and connects:
MTX and Streetwires


Battery:
Relocated to the rear (KINETIC)



Interior:
custom and rockin 2 bench seats!: NEW ACC CARPET KIT
: Exhaust:


SPECIAL THANKS TO:


Eric at little shop for all the answers to all the questions I asked. I guess we are even now from all the zip ties and tape you have borrowed from me at the shows over the past few years lol


: Mark at Slaughterhouse Customs in Tomball, Texas for also answering any questions I had with the suspension and stock floor.

RA/// JEFF for all his knowledge on the stock floor body drop: Curt Fidurko for busting his but with me late at night and burning his arms helping weld.

Jeremy at TRE5 for answering all my questions on his Tahoe build




Z-ING the frame. Way easy with an engine hoist. Make sure truck is level. Build the legs off the frame to the floor. Cut the frame near firewall. Make sure you have hoist attached to the engine but do not put too much tension on the hoist just snug it up. Jack the section up three inches. Place 2X3 inch box steel under each leg. Lower the section onto the 2X3 and weld up. Cut the frame horns and remove the 2X3 box steel from under its leg and the horns are completely the same distance you raised the front. It only needed a 2.75 inch Z but we decided to go 3 just incase we decide to cut the pinch off later.
: while we had the front end off we replaced and painted:; inner and outer tie rods; ball joints; rotors; new inner and outer bearings; new master cylinder; new brake lines; new calipers; drop spindles

: Using the engine hoist to relieve the stress off the frame we scribed a line and cut away. lol

: Raised it up three inches and gusseted the hell out of it using 3 inch gussets a quarter inch thick and welding it on the inside and well as the outside.

: lowered the front frame horns down

: Cleanin up some welds



gas filler is still in the same spot just needed to make a new mount.

22inch COY C5's with a 265-40-22 tire. Running a little fatter tire because once again "its built to drive" Wadded many of wheels over the years its just getting old. It has the diameter of most 24's


: Rockin the RA logo in the rear wheel well

Bagged it to the pinch just in case we want to take it off....looks like we will take it off soon

Dakota Digital gauge in dash. Led on dash illuminates every time the engine driven turns on so we can tell when we are rolling if there is any problems. If a pressure switch goes bad these engine drivens will run themselves till they die. If the light stays on then we know we have a problem and we can turn the kill switch on under the dash until we can diagnose the problem. whoops.....missin a dash screw! lol


York 210 engine driven Compressor. Summit Racing Stainless radiator hose to keep the fan and belts from leaving us stranded.

: Kept the AC and there is no way in hell the wheel is coming in contact with the firewall. Went gonzo on the tub. Relocated wire harness plug as well. Wheel well tubs will be coming soon.


Water trap located on the core support.

: Floor is raised up 3" and battery is relocated to the rear. Thank you Kinetic, MTX and STREETWIRES.

Gas filler is tucked out of the way so trim panels wont protrude. Tubbed the rear wheels for 26's if needed in the future. Still lots of cargo room left for long trips.


All copper hard lines and SMC 1/2 inch valves. Slow down valves on the inlets and outlets so we don't slam the ass end into the ground or hop the rear off the ground when we air it up. We also used mufflers to knock down the noise in the cab. She will have full control of the speed up and down. We all know the front goes up way slower than the rear and with this setup she will be able to adjust them so they can come up somewhat even and go gown even saving the roll pan.




Two five gallon tanks mounted underneath the rear and behind the rear tire.

: Bagged and bodied it to the pinch just in case we get a crazy notion to cut it off. Runnin bag spacers for now to take up the slack so we still get max lift.





Rear wheel wells have RA logos mounted in them then bed lined over them. Just a subtle mod to an ugly inner wheel well. Logos look very cool and are completely visible when layed out.




Rear disk brake conversion kit and painted chassis.


All new sheet metal was bed lined inside the cab.


Trap door in the rear so when the fuel pump goes out we can replace it with ease. Notice I said "GOES OUT "lol

Built tray in rear to house valves. Holes in panel for bulk head fittings so the air lines can get into the cab without water leaks.

Yes the rear seat goes in and is not raised! all this is mounted underneath the seat. The only thing exposed is the drive shaft tunnel in front of seat.



Built drive shaft hoop that hooks into the 4 link bar x-member underneath for added strength. Tied the hoop into the bag mount as well.



Trap door pic. Relocated battery to the rear as well.





Stock gas tank was used and raised up. Yes gas can go in it! The filler is at an angle. Its not a huge angle but it has an inch of drop over a foot and a half span. It wont be fun filling it but we didn't want to fill the burb up from the inside nor relocate and shave the stock filler door. She wanted to drive this ride. It has the oversized tank and she can fill it up once and make a journey to Florida if she wants without filling up 4 or 5 times. Plus she retains the factory fuel pump and wiring.



Rear has a satchel Link. The angled bars are on the bottom and the straight bars are on the outside of the frame mounted on top of the axle. This had to be done because we wanted to retain most of the floor. The angled bars have the RE8's mounted to them. The over all length of each of the bars is 40". We didn't want small stubby bars to cause the axle to rack when traveling up and down. Longer bars tend not to rack as bad. We never had to worry about this 10 years ago but with the onslaught of large wheels it has become and issue. The larger the wheel the more lift you need...blah blah blah. will it ever stop.




Gas door from the inside of the cab.


JENS FIRST WELDS. Not too bad for a first timer. What a champ! Only sleeves on this chick that day was the tattooed ones, some gloves and a mask. lol